Trousers-waistband



J. MARCUS AND J. F. BERGEN.

TROUSERS WAISTBAND.

"PPLICATION FILED MAR. 13, I919.

1,321,536, 7 Patented Nov. 11, 1919.

9 v I N V E N T O R S Jaco& Jifarczzsw Joknffieryeiz,

" 7 ATTORNEY UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JACOB MARCUS AND JOHN F. BERGEN, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

TROUISERS-WAISTBAND.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Nov. 11, 1919.

Application filed March 13, 1919. Serial No. 282,333.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that we, J ACOB MARCUS and JOHN F. BERGEN, both citizens of Poland, both residing at Brooklyn, Kings county, State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Trousers Waistbands, of which the followingis a specification.

This invention relates to improvements in trousers -waistbands, pertaining more particularly to the production of a waistband-forming element adapted for production as an article of manufacture of such form as to permit its bodily attachment to the trousers material with a minimum amount of careful attention.

The waistbands of trousers are universally formed of a pluralityof plies of material, of which the trousers material forms the outer ply,..the remainder of the waistband being generally hidden by being located on the inner side of the garment; as it is desirable that a minimum number of lines of stitching be exposed on the outer surface, this inner formation is generally so arranged as to permit of attachment by blind stitching.

Prior to the present invention, it has been the general practice to produce this inner formation from a multiplicity of elements each formed from a strip of'material of the desired length and width, these being generally produced by the tailor and assembled by him when forming the waistband. Various combinations are employed. For instance, a common practice is to provide a stiffener, a binder or binders for the latter, and a lining, these being assembled in such manner that the stiffener is entirely inclosed between the trousers material and the'lining, the lining and binder being exposed. As will be understood, the cutting of these elements into strip' form necessarily produces a raw edge effect at the opposite edges of the strip, and this forms one reason for I the requirement of the binder or binders and the particular folding required to hide these raw edges with their possibilities of fraying. s,

As will be understood, the neat appearance of the garment requires very careful workmanship under these conditions. The stiffener and binder or binders being of dif ferent materials and produced separately, the assembling of the stiffener and binder .assembly condition maybe had-inherently difiicult by reason of the character of the stlfiener material. After assembly of the binder and-stiffener, they must be properly stitched together, and with the lining,

stitched to the trousers material to provide I the initial assembly of the elements before attempting to complete the band.

The present invention is designed to overcome many of these difficulties by (at) producing a formation in which the raw edge conditions are reduced to a minimum, and (6') providing a composite structure capable of production as a separate article of manufacture-which provides the complete inner formation of the band when properly attached to the trousers material, the structure being of a type which can be produced in a simple and efficient manner and sold as such for use as desired by the tailor who is not required to provide the careful detail attention to the assembly, the structure itself meeting this particular problem.

To these and other ends, the nature of which will be readily understood, as the invention is hereinafter disclosed, said invention consists in the improved construction and combination of parts, hereinafter fully described, illustrated in the accompanying drawings, and more particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

In the accompanying drawings, in which similar reference characters indicate simi lar parts in each of the views- Figure 1 isa perspective view of a part of a trousers flap showing the invention applied thereto.

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of a portion of the composite structure forming the article of manufacture, and

Fig. 3 is a detail sectional view showing the structure applied.

The composite structure is shown in Fig. 2 and comprises a stiffener element 6 and a liner element 7, these being assembled to produce the structure required for the inner formation of the Waistband. As will be seen, the stiffener element is of the usual strip-like formation, but in the present instance,'being of any length desireda number of yards, if the structure is sold by the rollthe strip can be produced by standard methods such as the usual cloth-cutting machines, making it possible to produce a large number of stripsaccurate as to .walls' of which are-of substantially equal width, and then providing a return. fold as at 9upon the inner wall or ply of the initial fold, after which the stifiener is inserted between the walls or plies of the first fold and the four plies thus produced stitched together by a single line of stitches 10, producing the "structure of Fig. 2.

Owing to the fact that both folds are in straight lines throughout the length of the liner, these folds can be provided by suitable machines which may also, if desired, be arranged to permit the operator feeding the stifi'ener strip into position as the folds are made, the embryo assembly then' being stitched on the same or a different machine.

This is made possible through the fact that thecomposite structure is not limited as to length, but being of similar cross-sectional configuration throughout, can be cut' into desired lengths at will.

\ Since theliner, when folded, produces the effect of the stiffener, binder-and lining elements of the former construction, with one raw edge of the binder and lining omitted by reasonof their formation into a single element, it will be understood that the possi bilitie's of fraying at edges are correspondingly reduced. "But this provides an additional advantage in-thatinstead of having two raw edges exposed, the exposed struc- I ture has the greatly increased strength provided by the'fold and the two ply formation of the one piece of material.

When the composite structure is to be applied, the free longitudinal edge of the stiflener is placed at the proper point on the-inner side of the trousers material 11,

as for'instance along the upper edge as in Fig. 3, and the structure of Fig. 2 laid 'on the inner face of the trousers material, the

inner ply 8 of the liner being in contact 'withthe -Ihaterial, as shown in F ig. 3. 'A

v line of stitches 12 is thenrun through the .five'plies preferably .between stitches 10 and the bend of fold 9, after which the free rtion of the liner is turned up to the full ine position of Fig. 3, and secured in position-in any suitable manner, a simple form being to inclose the .upper edges of the trousers material, stiflener and liner, by a binder 14:.

As will be understood, it becomes a simple matter to run the stitches .12, these being placed on the liner are not made effective onthe stitches 12' but on stitches 10, so that .such strains do not affect the appearance of the exposed stitches on the front of the trousers.

While the location of stitches 12'is such as to bring them close to the upper edge produced by fold 9substantially impracticable Where the two raw edge structure is present at this point by reason of liability of being torn l0ose-the integral formation at this point and the double thickness of the material acts to increase the security of position of the stitches for obvious reasons.

- While we have herein. disclosed a preferred embodiment of our invention, and disclosed a way in which it may be employed, it will be readily understood that changes and modifications therein may be found desirable ,or necessary in meeting the various exigencies of use, and we desire to be understood as reserving the right to make any and all such changes or modifications therein as maybe found necessary or essential in so faras the same may fall within the spirit and scope of the invention as expressed in the accompanying claims when broadly construed.

Having thus described our invention, what we claim as new is:

1. As a new .article of manufacture, a

stiffener and lining elements assembled with a stiffener edge seatedwithin a pocket one wall of which is in integral double-ply formation and with the elements assembled composite structurefor application to the a by stitching through the pocket and its Walls, said assembly being secured to the trousers material by stitching through the pocket intermediate the outer end of the 5 pocket and the first-mentioned stitching, said lining element being folded to overlie both stitchings, whereby the first-mentioned stitchings WilllOB rendered blind and serve to sustain the strains (if the fold.

In testimony whereof We have signed our 10 names to this specification this eleventh; day

of March, 1919. JACOB MARCUS.

J OHN F. BERGEN. 

